Asheville has been calling me for a while but not because of the ad campaign. I have not been able to get out of town for a while and I am desperate for a mountain fix. I need a change of scenery and a day trip is just what my inner travel junkie negotiated with my wallet.

What those people calling from Asheville want is for everybody to take the budget busting tour of the majestic house and gardens at the Biltmore (some will know it was the mansion in the Peter Sellers movie “Being There”) or spending a spa day at the Grove Park Inn. Been there. Done that. No money for it right now. Instead, I’ll rustle up a less pricey, less touristy, more local experience.

It’s a foggy morning as my husband Mike and I leave Charlotte for the easy 2-hour drive. There are at least 4 ways we can go. This time we decide to take I-85 to U.S. 74 to I-26 with a brief coda along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Most times trips to western NC take a detour through the upstate of South Carolina because the gas taxes are significantly cheaper in SC.  But now that we have a fuel sipping Toyota Prius we can bypass that. The trip used to suck down almost a full tank in my old Honda Element. Our elegant Blue Bombshell, however, cuts the consumption in half.

The fog finally starts to lift just in time for our approach to the Blue Ridge Parkway. With the new car, we purged our old-school paper maps. High tech is great. Until we lose our Internet connection. For technophiles, it’s a jolt up here in the hills where the cell tower connection can disappear around the next bend of a mountain road.

There are no signs to guide us. WTF? But we know the general direction we’re headed.  Our meandering along the French Broad River (which is REALLY broad) brings us successfully (phew!) to the Blue Ridge Parkway. We stop to walk out on a bridge to get a bird’s eye view of the river far below.

Out of the corner of my eye, I catch a movement in a crack in the sidewalk pavement. A bat pokes his head out and quickly ducks down into the hole. I am patient. I will get a shot of him on the way back to the car.

The French Broad runs swiftly: been a lot of rain lately. Since it’s a weekday in early May, rafting and tubing is still a few weeks away. After a few minutes of the soothing music of the rushing river we head back to the car.

My little bat friend is back checking us out and stays up long enough for me snap a shot of him before we mosey along the last few miles to Asheville.

This stretch of the Blue Ridge Parkway is two lanes of pavement embraced by a thick stand of trees that block out civilization (and cell tower signals.) The fog is gone and the sun peeps through the tree canopy. We do a little daydreaming about what it would be like to do a motorcycle trip for the 469-mile length of the parkway.

It’s about 11 am when we arrive at the Moog Music Factory. There are free 40-minute tours but they run at 10 am and 3 pm. As we hem and haw about coming back at 3, we are offered a 5-minute quickie, which we pounce on. Another man joins us a few minutes later and our tour pretty much ends up being about 40 minutes.

Robert “Bob” Moog (pronounced with a long ō, not the commonly mispronounced oo) passed away in 2005 but his legacy lives on in this factory in Asheville. Our guide gives us the Cliff Notes version of Bob’s life and the Moog synthesizers that found fans in Beatle George Harrison and Keith Emerson of the band Emerson, Lake & Palmer. The Moog synthesizer revolutionized music because it gave musical groups access to a whole new range of sounds performed through a single keyboard.

In this digital world, the Moog synthesizers are analog and built by hand. They still can only play one note at a time. Moog was proud to keep the business in the United States with as many of the materials as possible resourced locally. In addition to the Moog synthesizer, Minimoogs, Moogerfoogers, Phattys and Theremins are made in the back room by a just few people.

Theremins are the funky instruments that make the scary ooo-weee-ooo sounds in horror flicks. They look even weirder than they sound. I almost blew out my eardrums playing with one in the showroom. Léon Theremin, allegedly a Russian spy was for sure a gifted inventor. Our guide compares him to the inventors who make gadgets for 007. He also figured out how to interlace pictures in the 1920s, which is the basis of how TVs work.

Outside, there is a huge mural of Bob Moog painted on the side of a building.  My muse Mike steps into his armpit and I get some great shots of my favorite musician (Mike not Bob). Now it’s time to eat.

I want to try something different so I opt for “mindblasting” Indian Street Food at Chai Pani. How can anyone pass up a tagline like that? It’s getting hot reviews including a write-up in the New York Times. Mike and I agree that Indian food is probably our favorite variation of ethnic food. But this isn’t the usual curry house. This is street food. My eyes are wide and my stomach is empty and I want to try everything.

I’ve narrowed it down to 3 things:

The Kathi Kabab Roll. It’s an Indian Wrap filled Ashley Farms chicken seared with onions, cilantro & tandoori spices with rice, roasted lentils and tamarind & green chutneys in a griddled wrap (a wheat tortilla brushed with egg) served with masala fries and a homemade ketchup and the yoghurt-based sauce called riata. ($8.99)

Or…

The non-vegetarian Thali daily special which is Malabar Chicken, the closest thing to Northern Indian cuisine and what is served in standard Indian restaurants in this country. ($9.00)

Or…

The Masala Potato Uttapam, a savory crepe made from rice & lentil batter – the one I want is topped with a savory potato hash, masala & chutneys and served with Sambar – a spicy, tangy vegetable stew. ($8.99)

And then the guy behind the counter throws another tantalizer into the mix.

An Indian street snack called Corn Bhel. It’s a vegan dish with fresh roasted corn, cucumber, cilantro, tomato, onions and flour crisps (puris) tossed with cilantro-cumin-lime dressing. ($6.75)

This is a really hard choice. He convinces us that if we want to try something different we should ix-nay the Thali special since we can get something similar almost anywhere. Done. Malabar Chicken is out of the mix.

Mike and I decide to split everything. I think we should just get the remaining 3 choices so we can graze but counter guy says it will be way too much food because we’d be ordering 3 entrees. We go with his suggestion of the Corn Behl and have him halve the wrap. At the last second I start to swap the corn for the crepe but stop and stick with the original decision. Mike smartly stands by while I twist and turn.

All I can say about lunch is that we both want more! It is simply delicious. A crepe came to a nearby table and I know that next time – and there WILL be a next time – I will try that AND have that wrap again.

What made the lunch even better is that next to our outside table is a couple with a 125-pound, 8-month old Irish wolfhound puppy. When he stands, he can look me in the eye. I have always wanted an Irish wolfhound but could never bring myself to get one because of their very short lifespan of 6 to 10 years.

Imagine my delight when the owners tell us that there are about 200 more wolfhounds at a dog show a couple miles away. That immediately goes on our to-do list but we still have time on our parking meter and want to check out the Woolworth Walk.

Woolworth Walk is Asheville’s largest gallery displaying the work of local artists. As the name says, guess what, it’s in a refurbished Woolworth’s. The artwork is eclectic. Each stall is a different medium. I am drawn to Steebo Designs‘ giant rusty metal faces and a wooden head sculpture called Chief Four Moons that resembles Mr. Potato Head.

The Walk even has an old-fashioned soda fountain built to resemble the original Woolworth Luncheonette. Established in 1938 and restored in 2001, they serve a lot of the original menu items. Think club sandwiches, egg creams and ice cream sodas. After the lunch we just had, it’s not even a temptation.

Outside, there are several choices for street music. In front of Woolworth Walk is a guy with a hammered dulcimer but he’s too busy yakking with someone to play. Across the street is an interesting looking bluegrass group. Along with the guy playing banjo is another one playing spoons, a young girl playing a tiny washboard and a woman dancing with hoops. I am immediately transported back to the hippie dippy 70’s. Gotta love Asheville.

Meter time is up and I want to see the doggies so we head over to the Crowne Plaza Resort. We find the Irish Wolfhound Club of America Dog Show on the back lawn of the hotel but there is a break in the action and most dogs are lazing around in makeshift pens. We walk around the grounds and see hundreds of pounds of dog sleeping on beds in many of the ground floor hotel rooms.

Next stop is the Spanish Renaissance-style Basilica St. Lawrence. Completed in 1909, it was designed by Spanish architect Rafael Guastavino. Its claim to fame is the largest freestanding elliptical dome in North America.

I like the exterior as well. The red brick with interesting lines that gives a hint of the curve of the dome. A columned walkway frames a nice view of the surrounding mountains.

The last time we were in Asheville we discovered the French Broad Chocolate Lounge. Stepping into the Chocolate Lounge is like stepping into Willie Wonka’s chocolate factory only for the adult palate. Cakes and cookies and truffles. Oh my! This decision is much easier once I spot the ice cream list. I dive into a chocolate shake made with 2 scoops of Belgian dark chocolate and 1 scoop of Madagascar vanilla bean ($6). It’s silky smooth and goes down in nearly a single slurp. 

Mike orders a chocolate ginger cookie ($2.75) and washes it down with a double shot of mocha espresso ($3). This chocolaty coffee is so much more complex than it sounds. The dunk of chocolate on the ginger cookie put it over the top on the orgasmic meter.

Feeling like the kid who fell into Wonka’s chocolate river, I’m happy that the only open parking spot we found was a few blocks away. I need to walk that scrumptious shake off before we get in the car for another couple of hours. Even with four hours of the day spent driving, we are still home by 6:00. Our only wish is that there was a Chai Pani nearby because we would definitely be having that for dinner.

Normally, I don’t take advantage of travel agents. But, travel agencies do serve a useful purpose. Take Mann Travels, a large travel agency headquartered in Charlotte, NC.  They saved me the cost of ridiculous bank fees when I needed dollars exchanged for Chilean pesos for a trip to Easter Island (Money, Money, Money)

Because of that experience, my curiosity is piqued when I see numerous ads promoting a Mann upcoming travel show. On a chilly Sunday in January, I drag my husband along to check it out promising we’ll stay no more than one hour.

We walk in and it’s like all the brochures in the travel agent’s office have gone from being a piece of wood to becoming Pinocchio. Instead of being inanimate objects, they have come alive and alluring.

First stop is the Norwegian Cruise Lines display showing off its exclusive enclave called The Haven.  The Haven is a cluster of suites at the top of certain ships that has a private courtyard and 24-hour butler service. We hear so much about the mega ships but not so much about amenities like this.  So this is how the other half is living! A bit rich for me at the moment, but good to know for when our ship comes in.

We globetrot from booth to booth through several rooms.  There is something for everyone. Representatives from the major cruise lines, tour operators and even Park’N Go, an inexpensive off-site airport parking lot company, are giving away brochures, bags and baubles. We pick up notepads from Trafalgar, camera lens cleaners from Cardinal Camera and what will become new reusable grocery bags from the Charleston SC Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Chatting with eager agents, we relive trips, compare notes, and catch up on gossip from our former hometown of Anchorage from Tim Worthen, the CEO of Premier Alaska Tours.

We sit smugly in the Mori Luggage seminar on how to pack a suitcase. The crowd is horrified when the presenter talks about traveling for a week with just a backpack. For us, it’s an affirmation of what we have been doing for years.

When I shop for “luggage,” I’m always looking for the lightest but most durable backpack I can find. But I must say, I do sit up and take notice of the sleek hard sided polycarbonate spinners she’s demonstrating. These rolling suitcases can change direction on a dime and easily glide down a tight airplane or train aisle.

Packing cubes are the new twist for us. We haven’t used them but they make sense. If a bag is searched, the see-thru cubes are what’s being touched, not the see-thru unmentionables that might be in your bag. Who wants a TSA agent pawing your panties with a queue full of passengers peering on? Cubes are definitely worth considering.

This also starts me wondering – what else can today’s travel agent do for me? I am a relentless planner but I’m guessing a good professional has the clout to open more doors for me than I can do on my own. They have access to package deals that might save time, money or headaches. With a wealth of real-time feedback from clients they know things the indie traveler might not be aware of. And finally, they are a possible advocate when flights or hotel bookings go wonky.

Oh, and that promise to my husband of staying for just one hour? I break it. We wind up staying for three.

One of Showtime’s Homeland Shoots in Charlotte

The year has flown by and it’s time for the annual weekend visit from my nearly lifelong friend Bill. Although Bill would be content to spend the two and a half days sitting on a couch yacking, that is not my idea of a good time. Prior to his arrival, I make up a list of interesting places to visit.

Bill’s visits were never a challenge when Mike and I were gypsies moving from city to city. There was always something new to explore. But, now that we’ve been in Charlotte for 12 long years, my self-imposed rule of not repeating anything is making that to-visit list more of a challenge.

Most of the must-see Charlotte-area tourist destinations have already been covered: the U.S. National Whitewater Center, the Levine Museum of the New South, the Latta Plantation. We’ve been to the mountains; we’ve been to the sea – road trips to Asheville and Charleston were checked off early on. Last year had an international theme. (Read about that trip here.) So what to do this year?

Charlotte has a pretty active film community because of North Carolina’s generous 25% refundable tax credit for productions done in the state. Add to that a diverse choice of typical looking locations that stretch from the ocean to the mountains with small towns, big cities and farm land in between. Crew costs are cheaper than L.A. and New York. It’s also a heck of a lot easier to close streets, businesses, or a university campus for a shoot here.

Closed Phillip Morris Factory

The Hunger Games was shot in North Carolina. Some of the arena scenes were filmed nearby in the shuttered cigarette factory. Currently around Charlotte, they are shooting Showtime‘s show Homeland, starring Claire Danes as Carrie Mathison, a bi-polar CIA agent who is sure that Nick Brody, played by Damien Lewis is a war hero turned terrorist. Multi-talented Mandy Patinkin plays her boss and friend Saul Berenson.

Charlotte can easily pass for the suburbs of northern Virginia and other areas around Washington D.C. For this reason, it’s not unusual to see roads blocked off with armies of workers scurrying from craft service (food) to wardrobe trailers to sets. In the vortex of all the chaos, there’s always the possibility of a star sighting.

A few weeks ago, at our local hamburger joint a few blocks from home, I came upon a mess of lights, camera, action. There in the Zack’s parking lot was a rolled over car, with a bunch of police gathered round. In the crowd of hookers was Claire Danes as Carrie investigating the scene. Some of this scene is in the second season episode called “Two Hats” and more could be coming.

I hopped out of my car to take a couple of pictures with my iPhone for our neighborhood newsletter. Police kept us in the library parking lot across the street so the shots are pointing directly into the sun and consequently are not very good.

Homeland Shoot at Zack’s – Claire Danes is in the middle

Most amusing were the comments from onlookers noticing how the crew kept doing the same scene over and over and over again. Yup, that’s the glamor of show business. I work for a film production company and have worked in television for many years. It’s a fun business but sometimes being on a set is like watching paint dry.

So, having this “in” in the business, I know some people who know some things that aren’t necessarily public. That is why the theme for this year’s weekend with Bill is stalking the stars and seeking out locations. I’m not holding out great hope for successful sightings because I know that Claire Danes is about to have a baby soon (if she hasn’t already). The show wrapped a couple of days before Bill arrives and is on hiatus.

But I know where Damien Lewis aka Nick Brody is said to have coffee every morning. Mandy Patinkin has a favorite Sunday brunch spot. He also likes to hike in the area. And if Claire Danes is up and around I know which supermarket and farmers’ market she is likely to hit. If they haven’t already blown out of town, we could see someone. That’s the blueprint of the weekend.

Bill’s flight touches down a bit after 5:00 pm giving us time to get him settled in before cocktail hour and dinner. Tonight’s dining experience is Food Truck Friday in South End. Every Friday night trendy food trucks gather from 5:00 – 9:00 in an empty lot across the street from one of my old hangouts, Phat Burrito. I used to work in the area and know the neighborhood well.

Cold beer and good bottles of wine can be had across the parking lot at the Common Market and it looks like lots of people are making the trek. The trucks are a modern version of a wagon train, in a giant circle with picnic tables in the middle. A guitarist is sings tunes through a little portable amp. Loud enough to hear but not too loud to talk. There’s a good vibe amongst the crowd gathered for food and fun.

Food Truck Friday in South End

We’re a bit late so some of the menu items are already depleted. I am craving beef brisket tacos from The Tin Kitchen. I had them at the DNC Media party and have been thinking about them ever since. Tonight there’s a different version of the delicious tacos. BBQ beef brisket tacos with chipotle slaw, chipotle sauce, shaved scallions and a side of cilantro rice ($8) turn out to be a very satisfying backup plan. Bill gets the same thing as me.

Mike is drawn to the Papi Queso truck that specializes in various forms of grilled cheese sandwiches. He opts for The Pig Mac, this version with mac n’ cheese, Carolina pulled pork and bourbon onions ($8). It took a while for his order to come up so they handed him a comp cup of The Daily Pickle – tasty fresh cukes made into a quick pickle with some onions and peppers thrown in for a taste sensation (normally $3).

The Herban Legend Food Truck

Other trucks include The Herban Legend with an eclectic mix; Napolitano’s for Italian fare; the self-explanatory Auto Burger & Fry Guys; and Turkey and…

Bill and I are pleased with our choice. Mike, not so much. While he is amused by the fact that he is eating a sandwich that has mac n’ cheese in it, he is disappointed that the bread lacks that buttery crispness of a good grilled cheese sandwich. This bread is just plain dry.

Two dessert trucks, Sticks & Cones and Southern Cake Queen don’t fit our fancy. We decide to cap off the night about a mile away at Bad Daddy’s Burger Bar.

Bad Daddy’s Adult Cookies & Cream Shake

As the name implies, the menu is mostly burgers but the bar is what we’re here for. Who cares about burgers when they have some of the best “hand spun” shakes ($5) in town? Probably because as their menu states, they “hired the best ice cream chef in the country, Kriss Harvey, to create our soft serve recipe and milkshake formula.”

Okay, wait a minute. Ice cream chef? Who knew that’s a real job title? Not me, but I’m considering a career change. Now everything makes sense. Call me a purist when I splurge for a rare shake I want a creamy, delicious chocolate concoction and Bad Daddy’s delivers.

Mike and Bill go for shakes that are a little more, shall we say “happy” – the “spiked” shakes. For $8, Bill chooses a Mudslide, which adds vodka, Bailey’s and Kahlua to a vanilla base. Mike wants a little more so he adds crushed Oreo cookies to the Mudslide to make it a Cookies & Cream.

Theses aren’t the only spiked choices. Reminiscing about the good old days with an orange Creamsicle ^® from an ice cream truck? The adult version is laced with Stoli O and Godiva White Chocolate. Love Bailey’s? There’s a shake for that, infused with a double shot of Bailey’s Irish Cream.

Plenty more choices will indeed make you a Bad Daddy. Be forewarned, these grown-up milkshakes can make you very stupid so a designated driver is a must.

Bill knows the drill. Saturday morning always means a trip to the regional farmers’ market. No matter who visits, this is a ritual, summer or winter, this is where we buy most of our veggies. I can’t function for the week without a stop here.

Our plan is to start the day searching for familiar sights on Homeland at Winthrop University in Rock Hill, South Carolina. Winthrop is the location used for Dana Brody’s school and possibly a few other buildings.

But first, we need fuel for the day. Mike goes online and randomly picks a place in Rock Hill for breakfast called Lell’s Cafe. Lell’s prides itself on sourcing food locally. The bacon tastes like pork, not salt and nitrates.

Lell’s menu

Lell’s French Toast

I get a half order of the Sticky Fingers French Toast ($4.25). It’s described as thick slabs of sourdough bread soaked in a vanilla‐bourbon custard. It’s doused in Mama Beehive Honey. I would have preferred real maple syrup but the honey was a nice change. I added the porky “pastured” bacon ($2.50) and a side of home fries ($1.50).

The 66 Diner Pile-Up!

Mike goes for The 66 Diner Pile Up! ($9.25) named after the 66 Diner in Albuquerque. It’s his kind of plate layered with home fry potatoes, scrambled eggs, cheese, that pastured bacon, topped with a good-sized dollop of mild New Mexico green chile and a fresh biscuit on the side. He’s very happy.

Bill orders The New Zealand Farmer’s Breakfast ($10.25). It comes with two eggs fried on toast, bacon, sausage, pan-fried potatoes and a grilled portabella mushroom. We all savor every bite.

The New Zealand Farmer’s Breakfast

People could be put off by the location in a small strip mall next to a car rental place, but don’t be. We were impressed by the friendly waiter, the amusing clientele including a guy wearing a Viking hat and the great food. Lell’s is a very good find.

Inside Lell’s – find the Viking

We tumble out of our booth and head to Winthrop University to search for Homeland locations. There’s the circular driveway where Nick Brody drops off his daughter Dana for school.

Winthrop University aka Dana Brody’s School

We find a walkway with a distinctive covering where Dana and her boyfriend Finn argue in the second season. The campus has numerous spots that look familiar.

Winthrop University Walkway

While we’re there, Mike wants to check out the school’s public golf course. He’s always on the lookout for a new place to play. We find it at the back of the Recreational Complex. It’s only 9 holes, not in great shape but it’s cheap. Only $10 and you can play all day. Locals affectionately refer to it as the cow pasture. Not for connoisseurs of golf but a great place to learn.

Duke Energy’s EnergyExplorium

It’s pretty evident that I am grasping for new ideas when a light bulb turns on over my head. I’ve always been curious about Duke Energy’s EnergyExplorium near the dam on Lake Norman. It’s a self-guided tour about nuclear, coal and hydro generated power.

We head to the plant north of Charlotte. I occasionally curse quietly at Siri for her constant mis-directions.

Lake Norman at Duke EnergyExplorium

It is a beautiful fall day at the gigantic plant nestled in fall colors on the huge man-made lake. We are barely inside the door and Mike is already bored to near-tears. My eyes glaze trying to concentrate on the exhibits. Bill dutifully plays each video and game.

It’s nice to be near the lake. Except the part about the blinding sunshine glare. If we had more time we would take a walk on one of the nature trails but it’s getting late. This place might be good for kids but these jaded adults want something else.

The Brody House

Back on track with our Homeland theme, we easily find what serves as the Brody house on Knob Hill Court in the Mountainbrook neighborhood near SouthPark. On the way to dinner, we point out the South End luxury apartment complex where Claire Danes holes up.

Bite Your Tongue Menu

Later, we are back in South End for dinner. I want to try a new Cajun place called Bite Your Tongue. The address is 222 Bland Street, but for the life of me, I can’t find it. We drive up and down Bland Street until I remember that I have a magic box in my pocket. I pull out my phone and call. They are located about a half block off Bland Street behind the Trolley Museum by the Bland Street light rail stop. Parking is in the deck on Park Avenue behind Carrabba’s. Confusing.

Bite Your Tongue Shrimp Creole

I thought the shrimp creole had a nice kick. Mike wasn’t wild about the red beans and rice and the salty, leathery andouille. Bill got a shrimp po-boy and ate every bite.

Bite Your Tongue Red Beans & Rice

Sunday morning, we’re back on track stalking the stars and looking for locations. For Bill’s benefit, we drive by Freedom Park and point out the pond, bridge and bandshell, all locations we have seen on Homeland.

I’ve had a tip that one of the stars likes to go to Bistro La Bon in the Plaza-Midwood neighborhood, so that’s our destination for brunch. They have a smorgasbord of Swedish meatballs, house cured salmon, pastries and breads but my favorite is the brioche French toast. It beats out their chocolate waffles, hands down. No contest. At $18 a person, plus drinks, I think it’s overpriced.

Bistro La Bon smorgasbord

We get confirmation that Mandy Patinkin has been here but not today.

With only couple hours to kill before Bill’s flight, we head Uptown to Trade & Tryon Streets, where a recent episode had a scene by one of the fountains on the southwest corner. Both the federal and county courthouses double as Washington government buildings.

Bistro La Bon’s Yummy French Toast

It’s getting late but before we go to the airport we stop at my new favorite bakery, Sweet Lorraine’s on East Blvd. I pick up a brioche for breakfast for the week and Bill gets chocolate chip cookies to sustain himself for the flight back to Boston.

We top it off with a Starbucks stop down the street and endure the stupid parking situation where the giant lot is nearly empty but every designated Starbucks spot is full. We don’t dare to leave the car in one of the empty spaces because there is a real threat of being towed by the despised Key Man building owners. I understand the parking problems during the week but on the weekends? Come on!

As we drive to the airport, we reminisce about last year’s trip to the aviation museum, a surprise hit. A new piece of art has been installed at the entrance to the airport and we debate if it looks like a wing of a plane crashed into the ground or a rocket ready for blast off. The latter seems more hopeful for me.

Maybe next year we will stalk the stars and locations of Cinemax’s new 2013 show Banshee where Charlotte poses as Pennsylvania Amish country. Stay tuned.

The Mutt and the Moai at Tongariki

A trip to Easter Island is the trip of a lifetime. A trip to Easter Island is long and expensive.

But if you are one of the 50,000 or so people who make this trek every year, you will be well rewarded for your efforts. Don’t shortchange yourself on time, and don’t put off doing it. I should have bumped it to the top of my to-do list a long time ago. I really loved this incredibly special place.

Planning this journey would have been easier if I had more information. So my aim is to arm would-be travelers with as much practical information as possible.

Four days on the ground allowed us to hit most of the major sights but we could easily have used another day or two. Because there is so much to see around the island, we didn’t have a chance to spend any time exploring Hanga Roa, the one and only town on Easter Island.

Parroquia Santa Cruz de Hanga Roa

Yes, we did tours as well as ventured out on our own, trying to soak in life lived on Isla de Pascua. But, we didn’t get to the little museum. We missed going to the Rapa Nui version of a Sunday service in the Catholic Church. We missed hiking to the inside of the volcano at the quarry.

That said, the longer you stay the more you pay. So, if the only way to make the trip work is for four days on the ground, even not enough time is better than never getting there. I say go for it.

Packing List

A flashlight or two per person. We brought three and used all of them. A good flashlight app for a smart phone would also work as long as the phone is charged. Shining light on both the floor and the ceiling of dark caves kept us from simultaneously slipping on the wet floor and banging our heads on low hanging stalactites.

High SPF sunblock. The sun is brutal even with 25 mph winds.

Aloe or some other sunburn remedy when you fry. My sunburn forced me to spend $17 on a spray can of aloe that I could have bought in the States for less than half the price.

A hat with a wide brim and a strap for under the chin.  Otherwise, kiss your hat goodbye because the wind is strong and constant.

Good walking shoes – closed toed shoes are best but the Brits we were touring with were wearing flip-flops so I guess it’s possible to get away with anything. I brought a pair of hiking boots that looked more like sneakers. They had the perfect grip for climbing up the steep ancient stairs and down into below ground caves.  Sandals are fine around town.

Snacks are extremely helpful – I bought a bag of a Trader Joe’s cashews in individually wrapped servings. I took a chance bringing them not knowing if customs would allow them into the country. But, I declared them and the customs officer waved me through. If in doubt, declare it. It’s better to be honest and have it confiscated than to get caught trying to sneak something.

The cashews turned out to be lifesavers because once we left town, the only place to get food is at Anakena Beach on the far end of the island. The day we went there was the only day we had lunch and we didn’t get there until after 3:00 pm. The nuts kept us going.

We bought eight bottles of water inside security at the Lima airport, paid for with American dollars but we could have used a credit card instead. There’s no need to worry about having local currency at the airport in Lima.  $100 flew out of our wallets in just a few hours without ever touching a Peruvian Nuevo Sol.

Even with those eight bottles of water, we still bought several more at one of the little grocery stores near our hotel. Large bottles were around $7 and smaller were $3.50 – $4 US.  Edith, the owner of our hotel, insisted that the water is safe to drink and we could refill our bottles. I read it is rich in minerals and didn’t want to chance getting sick since we had so little time but if you have a strong stomach, this might be a place to save a little cash.

Bring enough underwear, socks and clothes.  You will be filthy from hiking, climbing in caves and driving on dusty dirt roads and will definitely want clean clothes.

Besides rain, a travel umbrella can be used to block the sun.

Extra glasses can be handy.  Mike broke his frames and I had to MacGuyver them together because he couldn’t see to do it himself. Okay, truth be told, I broke them. But I contend that it was Mike’s fault because he laid them on the bed and I didn’t see them. I rolled on them and smashed them. In an effort to fix them, I snapped off one of the thingies that goes over the ear. There. I’ve admitted my part in the broken glasses episode now let’s move on.

Deet turned out not to be necessary for our trip. I’m not sure if it’s because we were there at the end of summer/beginning of fall or that the mosquito population had been eradicated. I had easy-to-carry wipes ready if we needed them but I wouldn’t worry about it if I were to go back.

A damp washcloth would have been nice a couple of times.  Same goes for baby wipes for cleaning up after climbing in and out of the caves.

While I’m on the wipe bandwagon, I always carry a travel pack of disinfectant wipes in my carry-on bag to wipe off all surfaces that I might come in contact with on the plane. The tray table, armrests, light switches, air vent, window, everything gets a swipe. This little cleaning ritual helps to ensure that I arrive at my destination healthy. It sucks to be sick on vacation and I do anything I can to prevent it on any trip.

On Easter Island, plan on no TV, radio, phone or clocks in the rooms at Hotel Taura’a or Hanga Roa Eco. I’m going to guess that this is the norm on the island. A clock might be helpful especially if you have an early flight out. Our phone stayed on airplane mode the whole time we were there but even when it connected to WiFi it never seemed to sync with island time

The Two Tripods

For better picture-taking or video recording bring a tripod.  I brought two. One was a cheapie – $15 from Target.  It doubled as a walking stick. But I should have used the other one. The heavier tripod stood up better to the constant wind. Unfortunately I didn’t break out the bigger one until the second to last day.

Photo opportunities are everywhere. Bring more memory cards for your camera than you think you will need. I took at least 1500 pictures plus a couple of hours of HD video. I brought two high-speed 32GB cards for video and one 8GB for still pictures and had plenty of memory to spare. Our iPhones were great to have along when we just wanted a quick shot of something or when it was difficult to pull out the camera while squished into a van full of travelers.

Belkin Mini Surge Protector

Chilean electricity is 220 volts. The plugs have two round prongs. For charging electronics including camera batteries, cell phones, tablets, etc., my best buy was a Belkin Travel Mini Surge Protector. It’s rated for 110 or 220 volts. It has 3 outlets and a couple of USB outlets. Because it is 3-pronged, I needed a plug adapter that would accommodate the ground prong and fit a standard Easter Island wall outlet.

Ground Plug Adapter

I also brought a USB charger that allowed us to theoretically charge two iPhones and two iPads at the same time. It acted weird when I had all four things plugged in but two or three at a time worked okay.

The Pareos

I have a black floral pareo that a friend got for me in Hawaii.  Basically it’s a long, wide piece of fabric.  It works as a pillow or blanket on the plane; a cover up; a shawl; or a turban.  Find things like this that can do double-duty.  There are many beautiful pareos available on the island that are imported from Tahiti. Of course I had to buy a new, light-colored one for about $30 US.  It has many uses at home too.  Mine slips into my purse when I go to the movies in case a theater or restaurant is freezing cold.

Don’t pay too much attention to weather forecasts.  While we were there, the forecast said there was a 100% chance of rain every day.  It rained once while we were out exploring but just for a few minutes and one other time during the night.

You are most likely flying LAN airlines.  Check and recheck your flights all along the route as well as at home during a two-week period prior to leaving.  They have a habit of canceling flights and changing times without notifying ticketed passengers, even though they require contact info when you book. We heard several angry horror stories.

Because I don’t like to wear shorts on flights, I brought a pair of pants specifically for the flight home. My clothes were disgustingly filthy after every day of exploring so I didn’t wear anything twice unless I was forced to. I had plenty of shorts but it would have been nice to have one more pair of pants to cover my sunburned legs.

Budget

Someone asked me how much money to budget. It’s so hard to answer that question for someone else because there are so many variables such as time on the ground, level of comfort, food preferences, etc. They wanted to know if they needed $2,000 per person.  That might be in the ballpark, depending on what you pay for flights.

Summer is the most expensive season (December – March) and the week they have the Tapati Rapa Nui Festival – usually in February – is supposed to be the most crowded and most expensive of the year. I have not been there for Tapati so I don’t have first hand experience on how expensive it gets.

Hanga Roa Eco Village and Spa

Excluding airfare, during shoulder season, I would figure $150 a night per room for an average hotel room.

From my research, this seems to be an average. Are there less expensive hotels? Yes. Camping might be an option. There was a campground across from the entrance to the Hanga Roa Eco Village. I didn’t have time to research those options while we were there. Maybe there are better hotel deals to be had if you wing it and find something last-minute.

On the other end of the spectrum, I would stay at the Hanga Roa Eco Village & Spa in heartbeat if I could afford it. It’s new, gorgeous and in town giving easy access to restaurants, shows and shopping. The Hanga Roa Eco Village & Spa will set you back around $600 a night.

The über expensive Explora was around $1500 a night when I checked. That price tag includes all tours and food but I heard from several people that neither is exceptional. A couple of fellow travelers went one evening (we were supposed to join the tour but our timing didn’t mesh) and they were impressed with the resort, the food and the entertainment the night they went. They were there touring as travel agents. They did not stay there and did not pay $1500 for that night.

From everything we heard, I can’t say that I would stay at the Explora unless they offered it for a deeply discounted rate. It’s about 5 miles (8 km) out of town. It seems like guests are a captive audience and sealed off from the local experience. If that’s your thing, the package includes all sightseeing and food.

Reserving and paying for a hotel room was interesting. I was told I needed to send a cash deposit equal to one night’s stay. My first thought was, “How the heck am I going to do that?”  My second thought was, “I’m not sending cash to a foreign country.” As it turned out, they also took credit cards so I sent a letter of authorization for them to charge one day to my card. And then I waited. And waited. And waited. No charge came through on the card. For two and half months! My guess is that if we didn’t show up, our card would have been charged.

Ticket booth on the left.

We spent $165 each on 3 tours plus $50 apiece for tickets to the quarry and Orongo. Taking tours made it easier to backtrack to sites when we had our own car instead of having to navigate dirt roads blindly. We saved $10 by buying our park tickets at the airport before we went through customs. My best advice is to have one person buy the tickets while the rest of your party waits in line for customs and immigration or else you will end up at the back of the line like we did.

Shrimp Empanada at Anakena Beach

Plan on spending about $100 a day for food for two. And that’s only because we skipped lunch most days and breakfast was included at our hotel. Meals, lunch or dinner were never less than $50 for two in town. Entrees with a soda at the empanada stands at Anakena Beach were under $10 each.

For less expensive food, it’s possible to buy fruit and other edibles at the markets in Hanga Roa. We had a refrigerator in our room but I’m not sure if we could have cooked anything in the hotel’s kitchen. Plus, after a long day of touring, we just wanted to go someplace and be waited on. To go all that way and not take advantage of the local flavor seems wrong.

But that’s just me. And if the only way to go is to camp and cook, do it. It’s a spectacular, magical island.

We paid $80 to rent a car for a day, plus we put in $20 for the half tank of gas that we burned in 24 hours. It was arranged through our hotel. I’m pretty sure it was just some local’s personal car. We never signed a contract, showed a driver’s license, proof of insurance or anything. It was all done on trust. We left the car unlocked at the airport with the key under the mat. They trusted us to fill it with gas before we left. I imagine rental agencies probably require paperwork but going through your hotel might be less official.

Keep in mind, that once you leave town, if you have car trouble, you could be stuck until someone comes by, so give the car a once-over before you leave Hanga Roa to make sure it’s going to make it back. And drive slowly on the dirt roads. I can’t imagine the hassle it would be if you got a flat tire, let alone break an axle.

If you fly through Santiago instead of Lima you’ll pay approximately $140 per person  Chilean “reciprocity fee” for Americans. There’s no need to fly that far south when you can go through Lima and avoid the fee. But sometimes the best laid plans don’t pan out. I know of a woman who was booked on a flight from Miami to Lima then on to Easter Island but at the airport LAN re-routed her through Santiago requiring her to unexpectedly pay the reciprocity fee.

Knowing that things out of your control can happen, budget accordingly.

Finally, you must have money for a few souvenirs because you will never have the chance to buy this junk again!  In that mindset, we spent about $300 on junk that we love!

To Do

The Orongo Road

You’ll need to allow a lot of time for driving the dirt roads. Especially if they haven’t been graded lately. They can be really slow to snake through as you can see in my videos. The roads are not well-marked so that was another advantage to going on a tour – getting the lay of the land before we struck out on our own.

Biking is an option but you really need to be fit to maneuver the roads. We saw a few hard bodies huffing and puffing their way up the rutted dirt road to Orongo.

Be prepared for stray dogs, horses and cows wandering the island. We were told that none of the animals are really strays. It’s an island so the owners just let them roam freely because they can’t really go too far on an island that’s roughly fourteen miles long by six miles wide.

The horses and cows are more of a concern for drivers. There were several times when we saw them walk in front of moving cars and buses. Best to keep the speeds down so you don’t get into any accidents.

We didn’t pet any of the dogs but never felt threatened by them. All that we encountered seemed well fed and non-aggressive. Just curious pups who love to bark most of the night.

When the dogs finally settle down, the roosters pick up the tune. Light sleepers should bring earplugs or save the ones from your LAN goodie bag. The crowing starts well before sunrise. Our hotel did not have air conditioning so we slept with the windows open. I don’t remember being anywhere that was air-conditioned meaning that the canine and cock-a-doodle-do cacophony could keep you awake.

Maori Tupuna Show

One night we went to the Maori Tupuna show ($20 US each). It’s around the corner from the cemetery. I usually roll my eyes at these kinds of touristy things but surprisingly, the music was really good. The downside is that we didn’t understand the story or anything that was going on. But incredibly athletic, hot bodies with good music made it interesting.

Someone else went to a show closer to our hotel (I don’t remember the name) and they really enjoyed it. I originally planned to go to Te Ra’ai, the one that is supposed to be an interactive experience with an authentic dinner. For us, it didn’t work out. It gets great reviews. Unlike Maori Tupuna, it seems like Te Ra’ai does a better job of explaining what is going on but it’s five times the price, costing $100 US per person including dinner.

As for the church service, I asked out host, Edith if I needed a skirt and was told that shorts are just fine. It felt a bit disrespectful but the island is very casual. We never made it to a service so I can’t give any other advice.

Here is one of the largest crowds we found.

One thing that you should know is that you are probably not going to come across many crowds. We were there at the tail end of their busy season and I think the largest “crowd” we saw anywhere was maybe 30 or 40 people. Even those crowds at Orongo and Rano Raraku were so spread out that it just wasn’t a factor. The tour buses we saw are not what you imagine – they are more like small shuttle buses that car rental agencies use at airports. I can’t imagine large buses being able to maneuver the giant ruts on the dirt roads.

Which brings me to my next note for your consideration. You come for the moai but don’t miss the caves. They are fascinating.  We loved crawling down there. But if you are traveling on your own, I would try to time those so that there are other tourists around in case you get into trouble. Cave floors can be slippery and it wouldn’t be good to be there by yourself and break an ankle or smack your head on a low hanging stalactite. Our guides recommended that we not go into the caves after it rained because it would be really wet down there. The rock is very porous making it very slick.

We didn’t go in the water at all. No swimming, no diving, no boating. I don’t remember seeing anyone in the water while we were there. Even if we wanted to, we simply didn’t have time to even touch the water so I can’t guide you there at all.

Of all the sights we saw, I absolutely loved Rano Raraku, the quarry. Each moai had its own personality and its own story. Some are standing upright. Some are still attached to the mountain. There are the broken moai and the facedown moai. My favorite is the tilted guy with the quizzical look. But knowing that these heads have bodies below ground made them all the more enticing.

On the other side of the island I think the extinct volcano Rano Kau is magnificent. The greens, browns and greys juxtaposed against the blue Pacific Ocean with the wind blowing is an experience not to be missed. On the far edge are the spectacular petroglyphs. Just five people are allowed on the viewing stand at a time. Truly awesome in the original sense of the word.

But I was most fascinated with the nearly one thousand moai strewn around the island that have not been resurrected on their ahus. I just can’t get over the moai that are still face down. I can’t help but wonder what happened when the rival clans came to push over another clan’s moai. Surely this was not something that someone could sneak in and do quietly.

I arrived with a packed itinerary in my head, but the island works on its own time. At first I was a bit put off that I couldn’t follow my plan. As time went on, I found that I enjoyed letting go of my control-freakishness and was happy with whatever happened.

There were so many favorite things on Easter Island. It’s hard to choose just one. This is a truly amazing place not to be missed.

My fabulous employer told me to go and have fun! We tried to concentrate on the business at hand and all raced home to tie up loose ends. Unfortunately, Mike couldn’t get the afternoon off.

A friend who went the day before said we needed to be in line no later than 2:00 and assured me that I could bring a backpack. With permission to pack, I wanted to make sure I was ready for rain. I filled my backpack with the poncho from the media party, a pair of waterproof sandals so I wouldn’t have to stand around in squishy, wet shoes again, a phone charger in case I had an opportunity to plug-in and my iPad to pass any boring time in line. I wore comfortable walking shoes in case we had to park miles away but my mistake was to wear clothes that were way too hot to wear standing in the hot sun.

Trying to decide how to get to ImaginOn where the Daily Show was taping, we debated light rail, a bus or to just drive and see how close we could get. Because the clock was ticking, we decided on the latter, fully prepared to pay a lot of money to park. On Monday I had seen parking spaces near the Duke Energy building going for $40! We thought the price could be as high as $50 but easily slipped into a spot for $10.

In line at 2:00 pm, we snagged ticket numbers 397, 398 and 399 by 2:45 pm. Free to explore, we were told to be back by 4:30. With almost 2 hours to kill, we decide to go to the EpiCenter where MSNBC was broadcasting from and CNN had the VIP-only CNN Grill.

On the back side of ImaginOn, we saw Al Madrigal and Jason Jones shooting a segment for today’s Daily Show. I only really recognized Al Madrigal and later realized that the guy on the Segway was Jason Jones when I later saw the show.

Al Madrigal, Jason Jones and Daily Show crew

The walk to the EpiCenter was spent looking for other people we recognized. We passed many camera crews, delegates and vendors hawking buttons, t-shirts and other DNC related memorabilia. Every issue imaginable is represented, some with interesting handouts. I almost passed up this one but had to go back and get this trinket.

Once we got close to the EpiCenter things got crowded. Chris Matthews was on the air on the MSNBC stage. A good size crowd was hanging out watching the show.

The steamy heat was killing me. When I got dressed that morning, I didn’t think twice about wearing heavy jeans because I was planning on being in an air-conditioned office all day. Never did it dawned on me to change to something lighter before standing in the hot sun on a humid, sticky 90-degree day. It was killing me. So when a hawker was selling a souvenir hand towels, I jumped. I was sweating bullets.

Happily we decided that we would have a better chance of getting served faster if we went to a restaurant away from the EpiCenter, closer to ImaginOn. We settled on Asian food at SoHo Bistro. I got the spicy curry noodles with shrimp. Very tasty. Lots of veggies, shrimp, egg noodles and flavor.

Back in line at 4:15, we are lined up by ticket number. Numbers 1 through 200 get right in. Around 4:30 we get the disturbing news that they are going to have to cut some people but don’t know who’s in or out.

And so begins our torturous roller coaster ride.

With 349 people in the door, we are 10 people from front of line when we are rearranged again by number. Suddenly we are at the back of the 350-399 line. But at least we weren’t in the 400-427 line.

People without tickets keep going in. We know that the theater seats at least 550 people so we never gave it a second thought that ticket numbers just under 400 would be in peril of getting us seats.

Taping starts at 6:00 and we’re still outside at 5:15 feeling like the whole day was for naught. At 5:23 we are suddenly whisked through security, up a couple of flights of stairs to the last row of the balcony but at least we are center stage.

#425 drove 3 hours from Raleigh to be here. She was the last to make the cut. #426 & 427 were turned away.

A not very good comedian, whose name I immediately forgot, warmed up the audience before Jon Stewart came out to talk to the audience. After what seemed like forever the bad comedian left the stage.

A producer had told us to try to think of a question for Jon because he will take questions before the show gets started. The guidelines are that you can’t ask for personal things like autographs or pictures. And more than once, we were told that if our question sounded weird or offensive in our head, don’t ask it.

Once inside, cell phones, cameras, tablets and any other recording devices were forbidden. We’re told, “Turn everything off. Don’t take out your phone out for anything, even to check the time because it will be taken away.” Of course, some guy in the row in front of us thought the rules didn’t apply to him. He pulled out his camera for something and it was confiscated for the duration of the show. They took his ID too, presumably to identify him as the rightful owner after the show.

Jon told us that they had a hard time finding hotel rooms because the DNC snapped up so many of them. His crew ended up 25 miles away Hilton Garden Inn in Rock Hill, South Carolina. He joked that we were in the top Carolina.

There are monitors in front of us, which I try to pull myself away and look at the live action way down below.

Samantha Bee and Jessica Williams did reports in front of green screens. That’s what makes it funny, them pretending to be out on the street but they are really in studio. Tonight’s gag was how they kept getting stuck at security checkpoints. And being from Charlotte, we all knew the intersections they were talking about.

The bit we saw Al Madrigal and Jason Jones shooting also was spoof on tightened security. Sen. Kristen Gillibrand (D-NY) giggled through most of her interview and we giggled with her.

After they were done taping the show, we had to remain in our seats while Jon taped a different intro for the international version. Finally, we were allowed to take a couple of quick pictures of the empty stage before we left the theatre.

The two screens on the left and right were the green screens where Samantha Bee and Jessica Williams did their reports pretending to be stuck at security checkpoints.

The show was okay, not their best. I think it was one of the rare times they were off their game. Chalk it up to being on the road for a couple of weeks. Last week was Tampa for the RNC and now Charlotte for the DNC. I think they were a bit burned out. Still, it was a fun experience.

But I have to say that I am so done with the hot weather. Can we PLEASE have a real winter this year? Bring on the cold!

Here are a few other pictures of the day from the EpiCenter.

Outside the EpiCenter where CNN took over a restaurant for the VIP only CNN Grill.

MSNBC Stage at the end of this walkway in the EpiCenter.

The crowd watching Chris Matthews’ show on MSNBC.

Chris Matthews signs autographs after his show.

Train to Uptown Charlotte’s CarolinaFest for the DNC 2012

The Charlotte in 2012 host committee threw another fun party for the Democratic National Convention. CarolinaFest drew a diverse group of delegates, dignitaries and a mob of Mecklenburgers (Charlotte is in Mecklenburg County) to the heart of the city.

Museums were free or entrance fees were at reduced rates. We were hoping to go to the Harvey Gantt Center for African-American Arts + Culture to see Tavis Smiley’s exhibit, America I AM: The African-American Imprint but the line to get in was down the street. Noticing the exhibit will be in Charlotte until the end of the year, we moved across the street to the Mint Museum where Former Secretary of State Madeline Albright’s Read My Pins collection is on display.

The Serpent

A few years ago when we were in D.C., we had a few minutes to pop into the Smithsonian and got a quick glimpse of the exhibit. We didn’t have time to do it justice then so I really wanted to see it again. It’s at the Mint Museum for a few more days so we the opportunity to really look at the collection.

The exhibit is cooler than it sounds. Secretary Albright used those pins to set the tone of high-level meetings. Diplomats would look to see which pin she was wearing to determine the mood.

It all started when Saddam Hussein’s poet-in-residence called her “an unparalleled serpent.” For her next meeting with Iraqi officials she decided to make a statement with a snake pin, sending a message that dates back to the American Revolution – Don’t Tread on Me! From then on the pins signified the tone of her diplomatic meetings. Her book “Read My Pins” describes momentous meetings and the how she chose the brooches she wore to them.

The line behind us.

We get to the Mint Museum just before the huge crowds arrive. Even so, security is tight and it takes about 20 minutes to get into the museum. I’m okay with that because we are out of the hot humid air outside. Once my purse and pockets were checked and we were wanded, we made a beeline to the 4th floor to the pin exhibit. Time is ticking so we zoom through.

I really want to see actor Jeff Bridges and his band The Abiders. Stages are set up at either end of Tryon Street. There’s a stage outside of the Mint Museum but of course The Abiders are set to play at the other end of the festival. Wanting to get a decent spot, we head north.

It gives us a chance to take in all the activity. For the next five blocks, everything from buttons, to bauble to burgers are for sale. People pitching their causes are everywhere with petitions to sign and literature to pass out. Every cause imaginable is represented.

Actor Beau Bridges in the brown bamboo shirt

The area around the main stage has a small crowd milling around in front so we move off to the right and get a spot right by the railing to wait for Jeff Bridges to take the stage. His little brother Beau is my first star sighting. He was a few feet in front of me as we waiting for Jeff to come on stage.

While Jeff was waiting for North Carolina Governor Beverly Perdue to introduce him, I swear he waved to me from the back of the back stage. I’d like to think he remembered me from when he was on a show I produced on KNUS radio in Denver a few decades ago. The host was Woody Paige (now on ESPN) and Jeff was promoting his movie “Starman.” Every woman who worked in the building somehow had immediate business on the studio side of the building on that day.

Actor/Musician Jeff Bridges

You could hear the collective disappointed swoon when he talked about being happily married. Evidently it stuck. He has managed to stay married to the same woman all these years later.

Three songs in, we got drenched. Remnants of Hurricane Issac dumped a whole lot of rain in a short amount of time. With squishy shoes on our feet, and dark clouds above, we decide to call it a day. As much as I really, really wanted to see James Taylor, I was ready to make the 6 or 7 block hike back to the train station. His show was cut short by another downpour so I think we made the right decision.

Even with masses of people escaping the storms, we were smashed into the first train leaving the station. It didn’t matter if we were nose to nose with strangers. The atmosphere was festive and fun and we only had a few stops to go.

Delish Chicken Tikka Masala from Copper Indian Restaurant

I didn’t have time to get groceries and there’s no way I was going to  cook dinner so we stop off at Copper on East Boulevard to take home some Chicken Tikka Masala (made “Indian hot” as I requested), basmati rice and plain naan. There’s even enough left over to take to work for lunch. Best Indian food ever! A very good day.

These are some images from the day.

Pins from Former Secretary State Madeline Albright’s “Read My Pins” exhibit.

When diplomacy needed magical powers…

A Big American Flag for North Korea’s Kim Jong Il

This is a bad picture but on the top left is a blue rocket launcher pin!

This is an interesting story…

On Tryon Street

Main Stage Left

Beau Bridges coming down the stage stairs.

Jeff Bridges (in yellow shirt) waiting to go on stage. He was here when he waved to me!

Jeff Bridges with NC Governor Bev Perdue talking about his charity The End Hunger Network.

Notice the flag – the winds from the oncoming storm are kicking up.

This guy with the tie and credentials in the restricted area looks familiar to me but I can’t place him. Anyone?

Notice that we are cruising right through the red light.

The night started with a police escort! No, it wasn’t a funeral. We were on one of the many chartered city buses headed for the Democratic National Convention’s Media Party in Charlotte, North Carolina.

Expectations were that fifteen thousand media types from around the world would descend on the NC Music Factory just outside Uptown Charlotte for four hours of free food, booze, bands and comedians.

My Party Pass

The clouds looked ominous as we hopped on a CATS Lynx light rail train to go a couple of miles to the Stonewall Street station where it looked like a battalion of police, buses and volunteers waiting to march us into position to board the party bound buses.

Party Rules!

Among the long list of items listed on the back of the credentials banned from the party, besides obvious weapons, were umbrellas. Luckily we saw it as we were waiting for the train and we able to put ours back in the car. Others weren’t so lucky. The branches of trees by the buses were heavy with forbidden umbrellas as the raindrops started to fall.

There goes another police escort as we get ready to board a bus.

With several buses loaded at a time, the motorcycle cops pull into position, flip on the sirens and off we go. Media usually covers motorcades. Rarely do we ever get to be in one so it was fun to zip thru red lights. If I was a driver stopped at a green light, I would have been pissed to see the police being followed by a city bus full of partygoers but being on the inside gave it a festive atmosphere.

As we got off the bus, the sprinkles turned into a downpour but the organizers thought of everything. Volunteers were handing out rain ponchos as we hurried towards the venue from the parking lot.

A marching band greets us in the rain.

The NC Music Factory is a discombobulated complex made up of music venues, restaurants, bars and clubs. The first place we headed for was the closest, VBGB but it was packed to capacity (probably because of its proximity to the entrance from the parking lot) so we turned around and saw Halo where the orgy of eating, drinking and entertainment began.

The rain and the fact that a lot of the media are probably burned out from just spending a week in Tampa with the Republicans probably had an impact on the attendance numbers. Guesses probably put partiers at around a few thousand but it’s hard to tell because everyone was so spread out.

We didn’t see any stars and only ran into one local friend. Because I have worked in the media in so many cities, I was hoping I would see some old friends from other places but that was not to be. Nor did I find any of my co-workers who I know were there from posts on their Facebook pages. It looks like most of the people there were the worker bees behind the scenes, probably second and third tier production people.

There was the local weekend weather person on our bus, as well the very important woman from some large media outlet with her VIP credentials that gave her access to two places we minions couldn’t go. She had a swagger that told us she would get her story no matter what. And someone saw Ray Suarez from PBS.

We also met a nice man who looked a little like Morley Safer and worked out of the DC office of ABC on the bus ride back. We spent most of the time discussing our elderly pets. Who knows how we got on that subject?

Then we turned to the reason for the party, the conventions. Some brief insight from things that happened in Tampa and moments later we were back where our journey began. It was a good night.

You know it’s a good party when you need a map. Not to get there but to navigate the party itself. These are the maps of venues, menus and entertainment.

These pictures are snippets from the night.

The first of many vodka and cranberry cocktails at Halo.

Round 2 at The Fillmore

Carolina Crabcake with spicy mustard sauce and Shoe-Peg Creamed Corn at The Fillmore.

Wet Willies’ Adult Slushie Choices

Monster Melon – Honeydew melon and vodka (l) and a Green Apple with more vodka (r)

Moseyed over to The Saloon to soak up the libations with Coconut Shrimp with Mango Salsa and a Carolina Pulled Pork BBQ Slider.

J Bliss performs at the Comedy Zone. We skipped the mini quiches from Costco.

Another stop at Wet Willies’ daiquiri bar for Chocolate Thunder – a fudgey drink of cocoa, vanilla ice cream and yes, more vodka. Sensing a theme here?

Chocolate Thunder in hand, we head to the Tin Kitchen for a Beef Brisket Taco with Mango Pico de Gallo and Chipotle Cole Slaw and chips and the Herban Legend Food Truck for Charlotte Shawarma. We also stopped at the Candy Bar. Stuffed, we need to walk.

Beef Brisket Taco, Chips & Salsa

Have no idea what band this is – it was outside of Bask on Seaboard and I can’t find it on the map.

A Cirque du Soleil-esque performance at the entrance to Club 2012.

Performers are rolled into a storage room.

Fried chicken and sweet potato fries at this station. Can’t eat another bite.

The band Chairman of the Board at Club 2012.

More Cirque-like performances.

He’s holding her with his feet!

Too full for Fried Green Tomato Sliders!

If I had a flash that worked well on my iPhone camera, you would be able to see that this is where the shrimp & grits are. Really. Can’t. Eat. Another. Tiny. Bite.

Another food station in Club 2012. Can’t get too close because I can’t look at any more food. Looks like crackers and dip. Maybe it’s the Southern Bruschetta Bar.

Waiting for one of the many buses parked on the other side of the lot to come take us back Uptown.

Goodnight Bus.

Goodnight escorts! We had a great time!

It’s 6 am and Edith is rattling our door. Scared out of a dead sleep, we are a bit alarmed and confused until we figure out that the owner of the Hotel Taura’a thinks we are part of the group on an early fight.  Before we can respond, she realizes her mistake and moves on.

Our flight doesn’t leave until 5:40 this evening. We still have plenty of time to play.  Wide awake, now. We decide, “What the heck!”  Let’s go record an Easter Island sunrise.

We pick Anakena Beach because we can race there on paved roads.  Well, not really race.  Time is of the essence to make in time for the sunrise. But there are so many loose animals on the island lurking around every other corner, that we are afraid we will hit a cow or horse in the dark if we go too fast.

Furry Beast in the Dark

There is no moon so it’s still pitch black when we arrive and can’t see a thing.  I open the car door a smidge and it’s pushed open by more than one furry creature that I can’t see.  The interior car light is not set to turn on so in the inky darkness I push whatever they are away with my tripod legs and get the door closed.  We shine a light and realize that the car has been surrounded by a pack of dogs. Mike and I freak out a bit.  What should we do?

Our flashlights barely cut through the darkness to reveal slivers of our hairy escorts. It’s REALLY dark out here!

Because we were here yesterday, we are pretty sure the pups are well fed.  I watched the woman I bought a pork skewer from throw what I didn’t eat in the air for the stray dogs.  I’ll bet that happens all day long. Nor have we seen any of the strays be aggressive with people but you never know, so we are cautious.

We find our flashlights and know the general direction of Ahu Naunau, the ahu with the seven moai.  Off in the darkness we hear horses nickering, cows mooing and roosters coming to life.

Doggies around the tripod

We carefully trek across the beach, watching where we step.  There are many hazards.  Volcanic rocks, excrement from all kinds of beasts and our pack of four curious canines stuck to our sides.  These guys really want some attention but we have learned from the Dog Whisperer, when it comes to strange dogs: no touch, no talk, no eye contact.

Two Dogs in the Dark at My Feet

It’s so dark that we have to guess where the giant ahu and moai are and just set up the tripod with camera pointed in the general direction.  I can’t even tell if the camera is in focus but I go ahead and hit record anyway.

Our pack has made themselves comfortable wrapping their bodies around the legs of the tripod so we have to step over them to make any adjustments.  The long-haired guy seems to be the alpha because everyone else rolls over when he corrects them.

After about 20 minutes of relying only on our senses of sound, smell and touch, we can finally see a faint outline of the stone giants.  The ears on all pups go up, faces look to the left. As if on cue, the pack jumps up and go chasing after something, maybe a horse.  A few minutes later our escorts are back by our sides.

Once there is a hint of daylight, we realize we are facing north instead of east so we’re not going to get the sunrise behind the moai.  Still, the gradually growing light coupled with the grey clouds and sounds of the animals and ocean is pretty cool.

This time-lapse video condenses the sunrise and some of the sounds we heard as we stood in the dark surrounded by our pack of dogs from forty minutes into just two.

Me and My Easter Island Dogs

In the darkness I forget there is another moai on his back and a lone one on the hill.  In daylight, we hike up for a few pictures.

Meanwhile our pack runs off to chase the horses down the beach.  When they return, the black and white guy digs himself a comfy couch in the sand.

Happy for our efforts and our canine company, we head back to the car.  This whole morning, amidst the bustle of barking dogs, nickering horses, lowing cows and more roosters than you can shake a stick at, we’ve yet to see a single human.

The Moai at Anakena Beach

When we return to the hotel, we have a bite to eat but it isn’t the same.  All of our friends left this morning and the new people aren’t the talkative types.

Time is flying. After getting cleaned up we decide we should just go ahead and check out and take our luggage with us.  Typical of the trust on this island, we rented a car for $80 US/$40.000 CLP cash with no paperwork.  Edith arranged it for us.  When we are finished she tells us to leave it unlocked at the airport with the key under the mat.

Bill & Edith’s daughter helps us settle the bill for $780 US. It includes $450 US for the hotel and $330 US for the tours plus the cost of the car.  Then she gives us each a going away gift of a feather and a shell on a rope with a symbolic meaning.  The feather is for safe flights and the shell symbolizes the hope that we will return.

Edith is working in her tour office at the end of the block so we go down to say goodbye.  After kisses and warm hugs, we’re off.

Edith and Mike

First stop is at the busy LAN office down the street to secure our boarding passes for our flights to Lima and Miami.  With that little chore out of the way, we are free to roam the island.

Even after almost four days here, there are many more moai to see. Near the cemetery is Ahu Vai Uri, an ahu, or platform with five moai in various states of disrepair; Ahu Tahai, the single moai next to the boat ramp; and Ahu Ko Te Riku, the only one with replacement eyes. The real eyes are in the museum. Unfortunately, we are almost out of time so we won’t get to see them this trip.

Ahu Tahai in the foreground, Ahu Vai Uri in the distance

Jill, Mike and Ahu Ko Te Riku

One thing I insist on seeing before we leave is the brand new Hanga Roa Eco Village & Spa. I almost booked us into a room but I only found one review saying that most of the hotel was still under construction.

Also, there were a lot of articles about a land dispute with protests that keep pushing back the grand opening. I didn’t want to take a chance that we would travel all this way to find that we might have to deal with protesters to get to our room. Or worse, sleep on the beach with the wild dogs, roaming horses and ever-present roosters!

Hanga Roa Eco Village & Spa Lobby

Fully open, the rates at Hanga Roa Eco Village are around $600 US a night for two people but when I tried to make a reservation there was a pre-opening special for around $200 US a night. I had trouble determining if that was per person or per room. It could have really pushed our budget to max so in the end I opted for the Hotel Taura’a at around $150 US a night.

As soon as we walk in the front door of the main building, we are sorry we didn’t spend at least one night here. The white curvy walls with cypress tree trunks are holding up a ceiling covered in woven handmade pine sticks. The floor is polished concrete. The beauty of the lobby blows us away. And that’s just the beginning.

Front Desk

As we wait for the clerk at the cool front desk to finish helping a guest, I can’t help noticing the nice touches available, like pitchers of water flavored with fresh fruit. Obviously, there’s WiFi because a couple of people are tucked into corners, busy typing away on the their computers.

When we ask if we can get a tour of the hotel, the manager tells us he is busy with someone else but asks if we can wait. A clerk volunteers to show us some rooms and we quickly say yes.

A Room at the Hanga Roa Eco Village & Spa

Our jaws drop when he opens the door to standard room number 26. Yes, we could have been VERY comfortable here. More cypress tree trunks, and woven pine stick ceilings but the added touches of the lava stone sink, the curved stone tiled shower and that beckoning bathtub! I really want to go unload the car and move in!

The wows continue in suite number 55. Our young guide slips us into an occupied room that is being cleaned. The roof is covered with skylights and grass. Inside, there’s a cool concrete work area; a bar; an open sitting area; and a bathroom with a Japanese style toilet brimming with electronic gadgets like a heated seat and bidet functions.  Yup, I could embrace the toilet technology.

Technology that’s noticeably absent is a TV and clock.

Our tour continues with the spa.  Massage and treatment rooms are connected by a boardwalk with sand underneath to evoke a feeling of being at the beach. There’s a small outdoor jetted hot tub.

Sitting area in the suite

The pool looks inviting but it’s not open.  During our visit, they are waiting for the government to issue the paperwork to allow them to open it. They think they will be getting permission to open shortly.

We meet up with the manager and he offers to take over but our guide is doing just fine so we stick with him.  Our next stops on the tour include the bars and restaurants that are still not quite fully operational. There are plenty of comfy chairs on the patio where guests can sit and stare at the ocean. But we can’t get food and I am hungry.

The only distraction to all of this beauty is the neighbor across the street where people are camping and have laundry hanging out to dry, making it look kind of low rent.

The Spa Area

While the setting is stunning, I think our experience would have been different if we had stayed here.  It seems a bit sterile.

At the Hotel Taura’a it’s a community where we made friends.  The Hanga Roa is more of a hotel.  Guests seem to be off in their own corners instead of mingling, interacting, touring and swapping stories like we did at Taura’a.

One of the Hanga Roa Eco Village’s Restaurant

Time is running out and we need to find some food. A place called Miro got high ratings in TripAdvisor so we decide to check it out. It’s next door to the fabulous Restaurant Manuia where we had dinner the other night.  The view is of the colorful cemetery, Tahai and the other moai beyond, all with the Pacific Ocean as a backdrop.

Miro

Mike gets the Española pizza with sausage, tomatoes, onions and red peppers ($5.500 CLP/$11 US). Me, I’m still jonesing for the sizzling shrimp with peppers and oil that Elaine had last night so that’s what I order for lunch. It arrives with oil boiling but it’s flavorless. It needs more peppers.

And the price is exorbitant at $15.000 CLP/$30 US.  Mike thinks the pizza is great for this island. I think almost $52 including 2 sodas and tip is way too much for this mediocre lunch.

Parroquia Santa Cruz de Hanga Roa

We have less than an hour before we need to be at the airport. Too early to go now but not enough time to do much of anything. We decide to kill the time by taking a peek inside the Catholic Church, Parroquia Santa Cruz de Hanga Roa. I read so much about its interesting architecture and I am still curious.

Inside Parroquia Santa Cruz de Hanga Roa

This doesn’t look like any other Catholic Church I’ve ever seen. The outside is covered with wooden Rapanui symbols. The main door is locked but a side door is open.  We slip inside the silent sanctuary to take a few pictures. It’s very sparse but it’s the statues that catch my eye. They are not what you would expect in a church. They are wooden carvings that seem to combine saints with what I assume are Rapanui gods.

Mercado de las Artes

With a few more minutes to spare, we dash across the street to the Mercado de las Artes where we look for last-minute souvenirs.  We are the only shoppers in the place.

I am in need of a wind breaker/rain jacket and immediately find what I am looking for. I get the bright red one with a few moai embroidered on it. Mike finds a nice navy polo shirt and I insist he buy it because he will not have a chance to buy it again.  He returns the favor when I touch some cheap earrings in the shape of moai heads. They are not even silver and cost $10.000 CLP/$20 US. In a split second decision I get them because we need to head for the airport.

But the woman working the stall wants to talk. She asks where we are from and then tells us she has relatives in Michigan, near Mike’s hometown. In any other situation we would stay and talk but we still need to fill up the car’s gas tank and we are out of time. We try not to be rude but we need to extricate ourselves from this conversation.

One more drive through town takes us straight to the gas station. We’ve burned about half a tank of gas in our tiny Suzuki Jimmy 4WD SUV. We pull in and are immediately reminded that we are not in the U.S. anymore. It’s like we’ve stepped into a bygone era. This is a full-service station. For my younger readers, gas stations used to have attendants who would fill your tank, check the oil and wash your windshield at no extra cost. Here the attendant fills the tank for $10.000 CLP/$20 US.

Matavari Airport

Arriving at the airport two hours before our flight to Lima, we hide the key under the mat and leave the doors unlocked. At the Mataveri Airport we only need to be there two hours before the flight instead of three normally for international flights. Mataveri is a tiny airport and this is the only flight leaving at that time.

Once through security, we sit outside next to a giant wood carving of a man wearing a loincloth.  We can’t resist peeking under.  The guy is, shall we say, well hung.  Of course being as juvenile as we are, we have to take pictures.  Being trendsetters, passenger after passenger has to follow suit.  A Russian family is having a lot of fun with it. They seem to be just as juvenile as we are. It keeps us amused until we have to board.

I am sad to leave.  I need more time. Maybe a couple more days would have done it. And I am bummed that I forgot to go to the post office for an Easter Island passport stamp.

We are a bit surprised the plane is sprayed for bugs before we take off. I guess it makes sense but I would think it would be more important to spray planes leaving the mainland so they don’t introduce parasites to the island. But what do I know?

The LAN flights home are pretty packed.  We only have a couple of hours in Lima and the lines for immigration and customs are long so we don’t have much time to hang out. We arrive in Miami at 7:30 am and breeze through customs.  As expected at this hellish airport, we have to go out of the secured area to the US Airways ticket counter to get our boarding passes to Charlotte.

Because we have learned that every time we fly through this airport we have to go through security, we allow for a lot of time to change planes. We are booked on a flight at 12:55 pm but there is a nearly empty flight at 10:10 am.  If we want to change, we have to cough up $50 each.  Are you kidding?  You suck US Airways! But Miami International sucks more! We grudgingly pay the $100 extortion fee and get home three hours earlier than planned. We wonder if US Airways re-sold the two seats we vacated on the later flight.

The day is just getting away from us. Taking the unexpected cave tours with Bill threw off our timing for the rest of the day so when we finally arrive at the gate of Rano Raraku, it’s already 5:30.  The sign says they close at 6:00 but the ticket says they close at 7:00.

Whatever the time, there is no one around. The souvenir shop is closed and no one is at the ticket booth. Out of nowhere, a man appears. We ask if we can go up to the quarry and he looks at our stamped tickets.

These are the tickets we bought at the airport where the sign said they were only good for one entrance at Rano Raraku. We stopped here yesterday on our tour with China. The man hesitates for a moment and then tells us we can go if we promise to be back by 6:10.  We swear we will and race up the path.

The Path (from yesterday when there were people on it)

No one is around so we are free to stop and shoot video of the moai unobstructed. It’s incredible to have the place to ourselves! And then we spot a lone 20-something guy from an undetermined English-speaking country off the path TOUCHING a moai!

Mike tells him that he isn’t supposed to leave the path. His response is that he’s seen other people do it so it’s not a problem. Well, it IS a problem. This is a serious offense.

Moai at Anakena Beach

In 2008, a Finnish guy broke an earlobe off one of the moai at Anakena Beach.  To do this, he had to climb onto the ahu, another sacred no-no. That guy spent some time in jail and could have been fined $19,000 US and been sentenced to up to seven years in prison for the offense.

The Finn claimed that the statue had a profound impact on him and he wanted to keep a piece as a memento.  The final verdict was to fine him €10,000 (around $17,000 US at that time), require him to make a public apology and bar him from returning to the island for 3 years.

Path to the moai

Secretly, I am hoping for the park police to swoop down on this guy and toss him in a cell for a few hours to teach him a lesson. It has been engrained in our brains that we are to look but not touch. We give him the stink-eye until he steps away from these treasures.

Moai at Rano Raraku

What is wrong with people? Is everyone on this planet so entitled to do whatever they please? It’s not lost on me that I ask this question as someone in the park for a second time when the rules say that we can only go in once per ticket. But I was fully prepared to plunk down $120 for the two of us to go in again if we were asked.  I understand the draw because I have to see these guys again before we leave.

Once we are pretty sure this guy isn’t straying off the path, we start to shoot video of as many moai as we can in our limited amount of time. We’ve already blown at least 15 of our precious 40 allotted minutes getting up the path and dealing with the Mr. Entitled.

One of these moai was the one that Heyerdahl excavated to reveal a body.

The 25 minutes fly by. The camera is blazing nearly non-stop. I’ve edited together shots from that run-and-gun photo shoot. Luckily my subjects stand stone still, but the wind continues to blow the camera around.

Incidentally, the moai are not just heads. There are bodies below ground. Thor Heyerdahl of Kon-Tiki fame spent seven months on the island and excavated one of the moai at the quarry. Click here to see what current excavations look like.

Click on this photo on the left to locate the largest moai ever carved and then it will be easier to see him in the video shots from the road. Look above the branches on the right and go straight up. He is carved into the lower face of the mountain just above where the grass ends.

A little further to the right of him, there are blocks that have been outlined, probably for the birth of a new moai. And on the left, there are many places with squared off walls where moai were cut from the rock. This is a really magical place.

This video shows the view from the approach as well as the mountain of moai in the quarry.

At 6:10, we are racing past the gatekeeper.  This time it’s a girl who doesn’t seem to be in a rush for anything.  We squeal on Mr. Entitled and although she doesn’t speak much English, I think we get the point across.

We pay a buck apiece to use the toilets before we leave because we now know there will not be another chance before we get back to the hotel.  And there is one more stop before we call it a day.

Tongariki beckons again. The 15 moai resurrected with their backs to the beach, staring at a fallen brother as another moai looks down from the hill. The restoration project started in 1992 and took a team from the University of Chile until 1996 to complete. The Japanese government paid for the project and a Japanese construction company donated a crane capable of lifting the giant stone people.

Moai on the hill at Tongariki

They took the moai that stands on the hill to Japan for a couple of trade fairs. So now people call him the traveling moai.

My aim here is to get some shots of this giant ahu without the crowds.  I just want the moai in the shots. On the way in, we are greeted by one of the many stray dogs. This one reminds us a bit of our Buddy back home. He keeps his distance and I go off to set up to shoot some video.

As soon as I hit record, he comes over and plunks himself down on the hill in front of me. He stays for quite a while, meditating with the moai.  Occasionally he grooms himself while keeping an eye on the barking dog in the distance.

I am thrilled by his presence. Pictures of the lone moai are all over the place.  I have the mutt and the moai!

The clock is ticking. By the time we get back in the car the dashboard clock says it’s almost 6:30.  We believe that this is the first clock we have seen with the correct time and that means we will be late for dinner with George and Elaine. We definitely need showers before we go anywhere.

We drive up the dirt road towards Anakena Beach to one of the only stop signs outside of town where we hook up with the cross-island paved road.  It takes us about half an hour to get back to the hotel.

We are pleasantly surprised to see fellow travelers George and Elaine are still there and willing to wait for us to take showers.  They made 7:30 reservations for us to have dinner at Tataku Vava, a place on the water with the little slipper lobsters called rape rape (RAH-pay RAH-pay).  Someone heartily recommended it at breakfast. Plus, it’s our last chance to watch the sunset over the Pacific.

Cleaned up in record time, we make it to the restaurant at the stroke of 7:30.  Tataku Vava is in a great location on the water on the south side of town. It’s on a tiny dirt road that is pocked with what seem to be potentially axle-breaking potholes that are more the size of large ditches.

Our little group is seated at one of the handful of tables on the large, westward facing deck. There are more tables inside but all are empty. Even on the deck, only two other tables are taken on this Tuesday night.

From our vantage point, there will be an unobstructed view of the sunset over the vast Pacific Ocean where it feels like we can see the curvature of the earth.

It’s our last night so I have to start with a Pisco Sour ($3.500 CLP/$7 US).  Mike wants to try the local beer called Mahina ($3.000 CLP/$6 US).  He is disappointed when it arrives at the table warm with a chilled glass.  The waiter explains that it is not pasteurized. It’s not a hit.  Mike switches to Escudo ($1.500 CLP/$3 US) for the next rounds and I stick with the sweet Pisco Sours.

Rape Rape

As usual on this island, we are starving. We haven’t eaten since breakfast. After hearing rave reviews about the rape rape, ($15.000 CLP/$30 US) how can we choose anything else? It comes with a small salad and an island staple – sweet potatoes.

Plantains

George and Elaine go for the fried plantains to start. ($3.500 CLP/$7 US) I try a piece and it’s okay, not great.

After all the discussion about the rape rape, Elaine decides on the Camaron al pil pil or shrimp in olive oil with garlic and chili peppers ($10.000 CLP/$20 US)

George orders in Spanish so I am not positive but I am pretty sure he asks for the Grilled Fish ($9.000 CLP/$18 US) which turns out to be tuna.

Slivers of bread come with an herbed aioli and we quickly attack it. As we wait for dinner, we are treated to a nice sunset. It’s not as spectacular as the one we saw in Concon, Chile but it’s a nice way to end the day.

Dinner arrives and immediately, I want Elaine’s bubbling shrimp dish.

My salad is welcome. I have been craving some greens and this hits the spot. On the other hand, the highly touted tiny “lobsters” are dry and tough to handle. Lots of work and not much pleasure.  The sweet potatoes are not the deep orange that Americans are used to.  These are pale in color but still quite sweet even though the texture isn’t quite right. I think they are undercooked for my taste.

The company makes up for this less than stellar dinner. But it’s hard to compete after having dinner at China’s Restaurant Manuia last night and Kotaro Japanese Bistro the night before. The mediocre meal is our least favorite food-wise and most expensive yet. Total tab for it is $51.700 CLP including a 10% tip or just over $100.

We are sad to say goodbye to our new friends.  They have an early morning flight to Santiago and need to be at the airport at 6:00 am.  We are also leaving tomorrow but our flight to Lima doesn’t leave until 5:40 pm so we’ll have most of the day to play.

NEXT: Furry beasts in the dark!

Tahai

Our second night on Easter Island is blissfully quieter than the first. The barking from the strays who wander the island is much more subdued. Could someone have transported the roosters to the other side of the island?  Their crowing’s a bit less incessant and doesn’t seem as loud. Of course, earplugs help.

As we discover at breakfast, China missed a couple of sites that were supposed to be on the west coast tour on our first day. Without us having to ask, Bill, the co-owner of the Hotel Taura’a comes to tell George & Elaine and us that he wants to make it up by taking us to the two places we missed. He tries to get in touch with a few other people on the tour but they rented a car and started exploring on their own early this morning.

Well, all righty then. A slight change of plans but we roll with it. We want to see the caves. This side trip will take about two hours.

Easter Island’s Cemetery with the moai at Tahai in the background

We drive through town to a dirt road that runs next to the cemetery across from China’s restaurant. It takes us by Tahai, part of which sits the only moai on the island that has replica eyes and a topknot. We will come back and see this on our own.

The path to Two Windows Cave

Our destination is Ana Kakenga, better known as the Two Windows Cave. The short walk from the parking lot is no better than the drive out here. Lots of uneven terrain and at one point the path has been washed out. So no one will break a leg, someone has placed a large boulder in the middle of the path, where we can see there is a big dip ahead.  Bill says this has just happened in the past few days.

Two Windows Cave Entrance

Before we shimmy into the tiny hole in the ground, Bill gives us the “Liability Speech.” Chile does not have liability laws. By going into the cave, we understand that if we break a leg or something else bad happens, it’s no one’s fault but our own. We can’t sue anyone. The flip side is that health care here is very reasonably priced so we can get what we need fixed pretty cheaply.

The two windows!

With that bit of business out of the way, Bill explains that we are to climb into the small hole like we are climbing down a ladder. When we touch the floor of the cave, we are to stoop down, turn around and make out way down through the lava tube while watching out for juts in the rock so we don’t smack our heads or scrape our backs. I’m a little nervous as I look at the tiny hole in the ground but down I go nonetheless.

Hanga Roa is in the distance

We stay stooped over until the skinny path widens out about 50 feet in, and we keep going until we are standing upright facing the two “windows” with views of the rocks and ocean below.

It’s really magnificent. Islanders used to hide in these caves from slave traders and other nasty people who came to Easter

Don’t slip!

Island. The caves dot the island so there are plenty of places to hide. In this particular cave, the natives could see the harbor in Hanga Roa out of the opening to the southwest and watch the bad peoples’ ships’ comings and goings.

The other “window” opening faces northwest and overlooks the treacherous rocky coast. There is no safety net or railing so it’s a bit scary to get too close to the edge. Even from a safe distance from the lip of the opening we can take in the million-dollar view.

Climbing out of Two Windows Cave

If I ever had to live in a cave, this would be the one. The downside, besides living in a cave, is that volcanic rock is very porous so when it rains, the walls weep and the ground gets slick and muddy. Currently, it’s damp. So, we tread carefully while we are down here and then tenuously climb safely out.

Bill at the entrance to the Ballroom Cave

The “Ballroom” cave is down the street a bit and just the opposite from the Windows. As its name indicates, this place is wide open inside and feels more like a cavern than a tube.  There are the remnants of very uncomfortable looking beds in here.

Inhabitants piled rocks into a long, rectangular bed and then covered it with leaves and palm fronds. I like a firm bed but this is pretty severe looking. I can’t imagine anyone being able to get a good night’s sleep on this torture rack and am grateful for a comfy place to sleep tonight at the Hotel Taura’a.

One of the many cave beds!

Bill tells us about his former life working on movies as construction manager. He has some pretty big credits under his belt including Star Wars. He first came to Easter Island for a movie called Rapa Nui produced by Kevin Costner. The story about the Birdman contest is based on fact but is highly fictionalized. The Hollywood version of the competition sounds more like the Hunger Games, rather than the way natives believe.

The road to the Ballroom Cave

He goes on to explain that the belief in mana, or magic still exists within the Rapanui people today. Bill’s wife Edith was told early on by her grandfather that her husband would come from someplace further than Polynesia (Bill is from Australia) and that she is barren and would never be able to give birth to her own children. Both predictions were true.

Horses on the road between caves

This does not mean they are childless. One of Edith’s sisters gave them her daughter. Bill tells us it is quite common in Polynesian culture to give a child to a barren sister. In a conversation with their daughter she casually talked about her “other” mother, presumably her birth mother.

Road Hazards!

Back at the hotel Edith arranged for a car for us. It’s all very casual.  A friend had a car we could rent for $40.000 CLP or $80 US. It’s a Suzuki Jimmy stick shift with 4WD. We can keep it until we go to the airport tomorrow. No paperwork, no proof of insurance, no driver’s license, no questions. The only instructions are to pay in cash, fill it up before we drop it off and leave the keys under the mat with the doors unlocked in the airport parking lot.

Another couple needs a car with an automatic transmission and that proves to be a bit more difficult to find, but in the end, someone comes through. That’s how things seem to work here.  Someone puts out the request and someone else fills the need.

Before we head out in the car, I need mega protection from the sun. The tropical sun is frying me and I am having a bad reaction to the exposure but it’s only bad from my knees to my ankles. And it doesn’t feel hot like a sunburn. Only later, after a visit to my doctor do I find out it’s a photosensitivity reaction to some medicine.

I’d like to save my only pair of jeans that are still clean for the flight home so Edith volunteers to take me to her favorite shop a couple of blocks down the street to shop for something to wear.

I want at least a pareo that I can wrap around my head and shoulders. A pareo, also known as a sarong, is a large piece of fabric that can be used as a scarf, skirt, top and many other creations – it’s all in the way it’s folded. I found this YouTube video that shows how to fold it into many different styles.  The folding portion starts around 2 minutes into the video.

Also, I would really like long pants or an ankle length dress. Most of the clothes here are imported from Tahiti. The little shop is out of pants but I find a dress ($35.000 CLP) and pareo ($15.000 CLP) that will do the trick.  Yes, I am not happy about spending $100 US for this outfit but it’s necessary. I look like I am wearing a not very flattering floral burka but don’t really care who sees me. I have to protect myself at the expense of any fashion sense.

Finally at 1:00 we are out the door and ready to explore.  We make plans with George and Elaine to have dinner if we’re back in time. Another guest was raving about a restaurant on the water with a good view of the sunset.  He said they had really good little local lobsters called rape rape (pronounced RAH-pay RAH-pay) and we all want to try it.

Plans for today include shooting lots of video. We head back up to windy volcano Rano Kau. Just to get a feel for how the winds howl and blow us about, here’s a snippet to set the scene. For all of my friends in the biz, yes, the camera is on a tripod but I wasn’t traveling with sandbags so it’s blowing around a lot.  What do you expect in a 20-25 mile an hour nearly constant breeze?

Across the street is the view of the town of Hanga Roa. Yup, still windy!

This next video really give a feel of what it’s like to drive on the dirt road coming down from the Rano Kau volcano to get back into town.

(Transcript of the voice-over for people who need to translate it into another language.)

0:00 I know I’ve touched on how bumpy the roads are but I want to be able to demonstrate it so I shot about 14 minutes of the drive back down from near Rano Kau.  The dirt road is really bumpy at the top and then we pass by the graders working to smooth out the road.  I’ll point out a few things as we get a little further down the hill.

1:08 As you can see as we come around this corner, they’re working on the road to smooth it out.  We have to wait for another car to pass and the grader to get out of our way but look off in the distance at the incredible, incredible view of the island and the Pacific Ocean.

5:20 I just love this little stand of trees.  Pretty cool!

6:24 Start looking for little glimpses of Hanga Roa off to your right.

6:58 Just when we think it’s safe to go a little bit faster, a cow appears on the right side of the road and you just never know when they’re going to jump out in front of you, so you have to slow down.  There are lots of animals just wandering all over the island.

8:09 As we start to get to the bottom of the volcano, we’re seeing cell towers and things that look like they have to do with the airport.

8:48 This little gate up ahead just cracks me up. It’s a gate in the middle of nowhere. There’s only one lane, one way to get through it. Although I think that is probably some kind of a thing to contain the animals.  It looks like it has a cow catcher on the top.

9:31 This truck up ahead has water tanks on it presumably to wet down the road to keep the dust at a minimum.

9:50  Now as we start to get towards the bottom of the hill, we starting to get into a more residential area.  As you can see, it’s trash day.

10:27 Yay, pavement up ahead!

11:04  Yow!  Those are some big potholes!

11:25   As it turns out, the paved road is just as bad as the dirt road, maybe even worse.  This cracks me up, they’re kind of like synchronized swimming, this is synchronized driving just to get around the potholes!

11:56 On the right is the west end of the airport runway.

12:34  As we curve around the right here, we’re are starting to head back towards town. Now we’ve gone around the runway and we’re going to head towards the airport.

12:57 The only gas station is right here on the right.

13:07 This street on the left where that car is, is heading into town and back towards our hotel, a couple blocks down the road there. And coming up here where the red sign is, is the Japanese place we had a fabulous dinner there the first night.

13:49 Up on the right where the bicycle is, is Mataveri Airport, the airport for Easter Island.

14:13 Coming up on the right is the runway and a little further up ahead is the airport control tower and that’s where we end this portion of the Easter Island tour.  Hope you liked it!

I think that gives a pretty good cross-section of travel conditions in the area around town.

Being free to drive wherever we want is fantastic!  We can stop whenever something captures our attention.  We stop here just to watch the cows and horses noshing on the grass. Behind them the waves are crashing on the shore.  I am especially captivated by group of horses that move together behind the stone wall. Out of that group, a mama mare and her white-faced colt seem to appear out of nowhere. The baby is almost glued to his mom’s side.  

A moment later I turn to the road because a man has come up from behind a wall. He hops on his horse and trots by as a dog stands in the road wondering which way to go.  

The stray dogs on this island captivate us.  We have a couple of really great experiences with some pups that I can’t wait to share but next it’s back to Rano Raraku, the quarry and we have it almost all to ourselves.